Nikko Chapter Two

Hello all, been a few weeks but there's so much to report!

It's been a largely hot and humid June/July, with the odd day where temperatures didn't exceed 25 degrees celcius - and these days tended to be very rainy so it wasn't like I was able to get out and really enjoy the cooler temperatures. But summer has well and truly arrived now, making me look back fondly at the snowy January we had.

My first semester of uni is starting to wrap up, with some classes ending, and the rest with only a few more classes to go. I'm giving a speech in Japanese later this month at a speech event, where I'll be talking about New Zealand craft beer (I figure I am getting into the Japanese craft beer culture enough here I wanted to spread a bit of the New Zealand craft beer experience as well). Summer holidays are approaching, with a few adventures in the pipeline, and a bit of time to get some research done (with the focus being on coursework at uni for the most part this semester). I am moving out of my dormitory next month, and then hopefully into a dormitory in Odaiba (an artificial island in the harbour, close to the airport and the giant Gundam statue I took mum to when she was here last year). Otherwise, everything and everyone seems happy and healthy, when we aren't in the stifling heat of the outdoors that is!

As discussed in one of the Golden Week blogs, Claire and I went to visit Nikko, the site of the tomb of first Tokugawa Shogun, Ieyasu, but due to the trains being a bit more complex than we initially anticipated, we actually missed the main attraction (but managed just about everything else!). One of my friends, Tijn, was about to leave Japan for good, and wanted to cross a few more places off, so asked us if we'd like to go to Nikko - Claire and I being keen to finally say we'd been to the Toshogu Shrine. Like the mausoleum we had already visited previously, it is built in a more Chinese style, and features lots more gold and colour than traditional Japanese shrines and temples. Also playing a significant part in the architecture are various animal motifs, including on Ieyasu's horses' stable, where the 'see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil' monkeys can be found.



The woodworker apparently had not seen a real elephant before, but these are pretty good representations from someone who'd only seen pictures!

The famous monkeys




Again, an approximation of an elephant

Quite understated design really


Very simple design - on Claire's dress at least


Animal motifs as far as the eye can see

The temple gate also has many carvings depicting famous tales of priests, with various morals underpinning the whole thing

They decided elephants weren't enough and put in some gold lions for good measure
The actual grave of Tokugawa Ieyasu is quite something, with the front gate being guarded by a painting of a sleeping cat - something about the circle of life (as there is a painted sparrow on the other side), which is apparently quite a famous thing.



We climbed up numerous flights of stairs until we got to the actual grave, which previously was only accessible to the reigning Shogun (aren't we special), and could see the huge bronze monolith atop a huge stone platform, under which the grave is. Tokugawa Ieyasu was portrayed as a hero in a few games I used to play as a child, and so to be at his grave was quite surreal.



There was a small forest between the main temple complex and the gravesite, giving a bit of separation (as well as respite from the sun!!) 



We went into the main temple building after that, which was similarly gilded and over the top as the rest of the place, though no less impressive for it.






Claire then went off for a coffee (probably also needing a well deserved break from the combined laddiness of the five of us guys), and we went to the Mausoleum of Tokugawa Iemitsu, Ieyasu's grandson, somewhere Claire and I had already been, but where there was one room we had not been into.








Having seen all of that now, we rendezvoused back with Claire at the famous red bridge, before heading upstream to see the row of Jizo statues (stone Buddha with knitted red caps and robes). After walking past a sign that warned of bears (sadly none were seen - I am still convinced they are a myth after not seeing any in Canada), we reached the path, which indeed had a whole lot of red wearing Buddha statues - and in one case, glasses!






The river was very inviting too as a place for quite collection and contemplation (living in the centre of Tokyo, green as it is, leaves me sometimes wanting a bit more 'genuine' nature, which this definitely provided). Before long though the time to leave came, if we were to make our last train, and so we headed back. Japan in summer seems to be full of bugs, and so I was stopping plenty to photograph numerous dragonflies, and in particular one radiantly orange butterfly, which was screaming out to be photographed.







Making it on time to the train, we began the long trip back to Tokyo (two hours +), and after a quick dinner in Shibuya, it was time to take our shoes off and have a well earned rest - except for Tijn who was to prepare for an ascent of Mt Fuji a few days later, the madman.

On another note, I had a wee bit of free time a few weekends ago during a rainy day, where I went and acquired a new backpack - my other one being massive and not good for when I don't need my entire camera set up). I had brought my camera with me for size comparisons at the various bag shops, and so I seized the opportunity presented by all the umbrella wielding people about town in Shibuya and Harajuku. -shameless photographic self promotion incoming-




Otherwise, I have enough material for another blog, which I might have a go at after my next lesson (typing this in between English lessons at work), so keep your eyes peeled for the next exciting chapter of a Troy in Tokyo! Until then, stay frosty (because I certainly can't...)







Troy :)

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